Shabestan
For a more nuanced idea of Middle East cuisine, Shabestan offers a wonderful introduction to Iranian cooking. Select a table with creek views or an intimate niche to sample oven fresh bread and a great Persian band. While a selection of starters is recommended - especially for vegetarians - the lamb is a consistent highlight.
Sho Cho
During the hot summer months chill out to the DJ's vibes while lounging on the funky white leather sofas in this groovy sushi bar. In winter the DJ moves outside to the wooden beachside deck so Dubai's hipsters can take in the balmy breeze, deep house and tribal beats, and each other.
Sarovar Restaurant
The cheapest meals in town are available at cafeterias, which can take the form of anything from a street-side snack bar to a tiny souq eatery or a bustling fast-food joint serving felafel and shwarma or Indian favourites such as biryani. They're cheap, have fast service and don't serve alcohol, and this tiny place is a perfect example of the form.
Vu's Bar
The view isn't the only thing that's hot, hot, hot at Vu's. This ultra-popular venue features dry martinis, comfortable lounge chairs and conversations that run the gamut from recent restaurant discoveries to hot tips on weekend wadi bashing. It's sleek, it's busy, it's loud, and it's not to be missed; cheap, however, it ain't.
Main Etisalat office
Plenty of phones for you to reach out and touch someone.
Al Mallah
A local favourite, the brightly lit Al Mallah sees waves of customers converge on its outdoor seating area, even when the thermometer is about to burst in summer. They're all here for the shwarmas, served either wrapped or as a plate, and a fresh juice. The other typical Lebanese fare on the menu is excellent too.
BurJuman Centre
Now the most gorgeous mall of them all - after some expensive work and a new extension - BurJuman is more popular than ever. Beautiful stores include Saks Fifth Avenue, Dolce and Gabbana, Donna Karan, Kenzo, Calvin Klein, Etro, Christian Lacroix, Cartier and Tiffany's.
Dubai National Tourist & Transport Authority (DNTTA)
A huge and helpful government-run tourism agency that can book transport and accommodation throughout the UAE.
Jimmy Choo
Jimmy Choo became a household name after his shoes began making regular cameo appearances on Sex and the City and adorned the feet of stars. Italian architects Vudafieri Partners and Lena Pessoa created the luxurious look of the Dubai flagship store, which features mirrored tables and suede fittings. Remember trying (and dreaming) is free.
Dubai Youth Hostel
While it's a fair distance from the action, it's the only hostel in town. Taking this into account it has far better facilities than you'd expect and the new wing with spotless single and double rooms beats the Deira and Bur Dubai zero star hotels hands down for comfort.
Hotel Delhi Darbar
This small Indian-oriented establishment is better than most of the hotels in Deira's commercial centre, featuring spacious, clean rooms and a popular Indian restaurant on the ground floor.
Pride of Kashmir
If the Kashmiri and Persian carpets and silky pashmina shawls here don't entice you, the luxe home furnishings and handicrafts will. You'll also find bedspreads, throws, wall hangings and cushion covers made from rich silks and velvets, patchwork and applique, and embroidered and sequinned fabrics.
Art & Culture
This crowded shop in the lobby of the InterContinental Hotel has a dazzling range of high-quality souvenirs and Bedouin jewellery. If you want to frock up, it also has some fine kandouras (the Gulf version of the kaftan) and robes.
XVA Cafe
This attractive art gallery-cum-cafe-cum-hotel is in one of the Bastakia's most beautifully restored old courtyard residences and is a peaceful retreat from the traffic chaos of Dubai. XVA holds regular art exhibitions, organises Creek cruises with a difference, has a wonderful gift shop and offers regular art-house movie screenings and discussions.
Emirates Towers Hotel
While this is arguably the best business hotel in the Middle East, there's plenty here to entertain those with more relaxing things in mind. Located in the shorter of the two sleek towers, the rooms are sizeable, the service excellent and the foyer is one of Dubai's best people-watching spots.
Casa Mia
One of Dubai's most dependable Italian restaurants manages to transcend its somewhat odd setting with friendly and efficient service. The beef carpaccio is a highlight for starters, and if you manage to get to the delicious secondi piatti (mains), we salute you. Good vegetarian options and a well-selected wine list make this a local favourite, so book ahead.
Wafi Gourmet
If you're in Dubai during the mild winter months or Ramadan, stock up on some Arabian delicacies at Wafi Gourmet and join the many families having picnic suppers at one of the Creek-side parks. Choose from barrels of juicy olives, spicy peppers, pickles, white cheeses, vine leaves, hummus, tabbouleh and much more.
Budget
Car rentals.
Grand Mosque
This multidomed mosque boasts
the city's tallest minaret. The mosque might appear to be a beautiful example of
restoration work, but it was in fact built in the
1990s. As well as being the centre of Dubai's religious and cultural life, the original mosque was also home to the town's kuttab (Quranic school) where children learnt to recite the Quran.
The Apartment
Chilling out in a leather armchair in the deluxe lounge of this rather exclusive club might have you thinking you're at a party at someone's very chic apartment, perhaps until you hit the club where some of the hottest DJs entice clubbers onto the dance floor.
Trilogy
Dubai's hottest dance club, hip Trilogy has dance floors and bars catering to different tastes over several levels. Visiting DJs fly in from around the globe. Get there early and head to Trilogy's Rooftop Bar for a drink first or buy tickets in advance to avoid the sometimes outrageous queues.
Tagine
Tagine offers the best Moroccan experience in Dubai. After walking through the sheesha courtyard and past a classic Moroccan tiled fountain, you're ready for a trip to Fez or Marrakech. And this restaurant doesn't disappoint. From the fez-wearing waiters and classic harira soup to rich tagines and live musicians, it's the real deal. Book ahead.
JW Marriott Hotel
While not the best positioned city five star, it's an impressive hotel with a stunning foyer and colossal skylight. Luxury abounds, the pool is inviting and there's several bars and restaurants if you're too tired after shopping to head out for the night.
Sondos Pharmacy
A 24-hour pharmacy that will deliver to nearby areas.
Bur Dubai Souq
Under wooden arcades and wind-towers, you'll discover scores of shops selling textiles, clothes and mosque alarm clocks, along with a few Arabian 'antique' stores. In the surrounding streets you can buy a sari, have a suit made, bargain for electronics, and pick up some Bollywood tapes.
Palm Lane Market
To expats and locals this market is something of a novelty in Dubai, but this is what most visitors would be used to back home - arts and crafts, bric-a-brac, ethnic products, and original jewellery and fashion. The 70-stall market has unique items on sale, such as Stanley Van Breda's jewelled lingerie straps, which have proven to be a real hit.
Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa Dubai
A lovely stretch of beach and elegant gardens are the standout features of this resort. There are plenty of watersports on offer, a great spa, extensive health club facilities and numerous dining options. A great resort for families or those who want an active holiday.
Deira Palace Hotel
This large 'family hotel' (no visitors after 9pm) has been providing low-cost lodgings one block from the Gold Souq for years. While it's certainly no palace, it has clean enough rooms with views of the street action.
Kanoo Travel
Next to the main post office (entrance off 19th St), it won't cash travellers cheques but will hold mail for Amex clients if it is notified in advance. It will also give cash advances on certain Amex cards.
Aminian Trading
For the ultimate souvenir (despite the difficulty fitting it in the overheard locker on your return flight), check out the staggering craftsmanship showcased in the fine selection of classic Persian carpets, along with more contemporary colourful tribal kilims.
Four Points Sheraton
A boxy 125-room four-star oriented towards business travellers, this Sheraton is also well located for sightseeing. While the rooms won't have you groping for your camera, a walk around the interesting neighbourhood might.
Carter's
Wend your way past the kitsch obelisks, mummies and sphinxes and relax at this casual and comfortable bar. It gets busy and loud of an evening, when shoppers retreat here after their spending orgies at the Wafi City Mall. Beer is resonably priced and the food surprisingly delicious.
Dubai London Clinic
A private medical centre that also has an Emergency department.
Ibn Al Saada
Tell the salesman you're looking for a unique souvenir and he'll bring a Saddam Hussein Ace of Spades Shocker Lighter out from under the counter. Pay attention or you'll get the shock of your life. Go for the Sheikh Mohammed baseball cap instead, although the store boasts it has the largest range of pashmina shawls - 275 different colours and styles.
Barasti Bar & Restaurant
This casual seaside bar is the locals' top spot for laid-back sundowners on a hot afternoon. It's the kind of place you don't have to dress up for, and can head to straight after a day at the beach. It even manages to maintain its laid-back air when a DJ is on the deck spinning chilled-out sounds for Dubai's body-conscious set.
Blue Elephant
While the Thai village interior (complete with fish-filled lake) is disconcertingly kitsch, the warm Thai welcome and menu removes any lingering doubts that this is the real thing. The Blue Elephant may now be part of a global franchise but refined Thai cuisine is welcome in any city. Go for a Royal Thai Banquet, or just choose your favourites. Book ahead.
Deira Gold Souq
Deira's celebrated Gold Souq attracts buyers from all over the world. Pass through its wooden lattice archways to discover great dazzling heaps of gold - chains, rings, earrings, bracelets and every other kind of jewellery. Most impressive are the ornate Indian and Arabian designs, intended for a bride's dowry - by the look of them they're too heavy to wear!
Skyview Bar
As drinks at the world's first 'seven star'
hotel now tops most tourists' lists, it's essential to book ahead and take the cocktail and cold canapé package. (If you prefer wine and hot
canapés, you'll pay extra!) Most people seem
to think the bragging rights are worth it.
Fortunately the dazzling views distract you from the surprisingly gaudy interior.
Capitol Hotel
This four-star is strategically located near the start of the Jumeirah strip and only a few minutes away from the Creek. The huge rooms are attractively furnished (and very quiet), and facilities are good.
Dubai Museum
The Dubai Museum is housed inside the Al-Fahidi Fort, which was built in the late 1790s, and is believed to be the city's oldest building. The museum has collections of everything from Arabian sailing boats to the curved daggers known as khanjars. There are multimedia and interactive displays, and all the exhibits have captions in Arabic and English.
Deira Post Office
Lotus One
Super-cool Lotus One assaults your senses in the most wonderful way - there are exotic Asian-flavour cocktails to excite your tastebuds; waves of sand, pebbles and seashells glow under your feet beneath the glass floor; fibre-optic lighting subtly shifts through a rainbow of colours; and the DJ's sultry grooves work beautifully with the sensual atmosphere.
Shangri-La
One of the newer breed of hotels on the Sheikh Zayed strip, this chic hotel has roomy and comfortable rooms and stunning views of either the city or the sea. With one whole floor solely dedicated to the spa and health facilities, along with some great restaurants, this is one serious place to relax.
Perfume Souq
Several blocks of perfume shops near the Gold Souq hardly warrants the title 'souq', yet these bustling stores sell a staggering range of Arabic attars (spicy Arabic perfumes), oud(fragrant wood) and incense burners. More fascinating than the perfumes is the perfume-buying ritual - just watch the burqa-covered ladies waft the smoke from burning oud under their abayas(Islamic women's dress) as they sample the pungent aromas.
Ajmal
This is the best chain of exotic attar makers (Arabian oils and perfumes) in Dubai and is generally crowded with local women buying up. Part of the fun is testing, but try 'Zikra Al Nawaaem', an exotic spicy sandalwood-based scent in an ornate gold bottle.
Dubai International Airport
The busiest air hub in the Middle East, with a famed duty-free selection.
Deira Spice Souq
This small but atmospheric souq was the largest in the region at the start of the 20th century. Take in the wonderfully restored wind-tower architecture and pungent aromas from jute sacks brimming with frankincense and oud, herbs and spices. It's fun to chat to the shopkeepers and guess the things you don't recognise.
Boudoir
This decadent restaurant-cum-bar-cum-nightclub is where international celebrities play when in town. Its chic Parisian-brasserie-style - crystal chandeliers, sumptuous velvet padded booths, gilt-edged mirrors and heavy drapes - may seem odd in Dubai, but nobody cares when DJs like Stéphane Pompougnac spin chill-out beats; they just dance.
Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum House
Built in 1896, this was once the home of the ruling Al-Maktoum family. It was built using traditional methods, from coral coated with lime and plaster. Inside there's an interesting exhibition of photographs showing how little time it took for Dubai to go from a little fishing and pearling town to a big money, resort-style oil city.
Al Qasr - Madinat Jumeirah
Surrounded by man-made waterways, this hotel stands alone literally and figuratively. The centrepiece of the extraordinary Madinat Jumeirah resort, it's a majestic hotel with fabulous views and superior service.
Jumeirah Archaeological Site
Built sometime in the 6th century AD, this township is the biggest and perhaps most significant archaeological site in the UAE. You'll see the remains of stone walls, a souq, houses and what is thought to have been a governor's palace. Objects found on the site, such as pottery and coins, are on display at Dubai Museum and the Heritage Village.
Jumeirah Beach Park
This lovely grassy park adjoins Jumeirah Beach. It has walkways, kiosks, barbecue pits, picnic tables and a children's play area. The long stretch of beach is clean, lined with shady palm trees, and regularly patrolled by lifeguards. The women's only day is an opportunity for the ladies to get a tan.
Lime Tree Café
Second home to Dubai's Stepford Wives on weekdays, this bright green villa (head for the terrace) is in a state of perpetual 'coffee morning'. Although the coffee is excellent, the service could be better. Still, it is a fascinating expat-institution-cum-'expat-in-a-bubble' sociological experiment.
Chandelier
You'd be forgiven for thinking that Chandelier was the only restaurant around - to most Lebanese expats, it is! This stylish slice of Beirut is known for its excellent mezze, grilled haloumi cheese and tasty sausages, such as makanek (spicy Arabic sausage with tomato, garlic and onion sauce). Meals usually finish with a marathon sheesha session. Great fun.
Vinoteca
Try not to be too perturbed by this fishbowl bar (and the stares of passers-by), and focus instead on the fantastic range of Italian wines and the rainforest outside. Although perfectly fine for a pre-dinner drink or to wait for a table at Peppercrab or Indochine, this is not the place you'd want to linger, no matter how fine the wines.
XVA
A peaceful retreat from the traffic chaos that's less than a block away, XVA is a contemporary art gallery, cafe and boutique hotel in a beautifully restored old courtyard residence. XVA holds regular exhibitions of art, sculpture and design, organises creek cruises with a difference and has a wonderful gift shop. This is what Dubai needs more of!
Police
This call is free from any phone and the operator will connect you with the type of assistance you specify: fire, police (gardaí), ambulance, boat or coastal rescue. There is also a gardaí station at Fitzgibbon St.
Virgin Megastore
Despite branches all over Dubai, this is still our favourite for its mind-boggling selection of Middle Eastern music (traditional oud, Um Kalthoum, Fairouz, Oriental lounge and chill-out) and good selection of regional DVDs (from Egyptian musicals to Iranian arthouse to Palestinian Elia Suleiman's Divine Intervention. A cafe and DJ booth keep things lively.
Ashwaq Cafeteria
Everyone's favourite stop on a Gold Souq shopping excursion, the simple shwarmas here are delicious. The chicken is best - juicy chicken meat, a light spread of garlic sauce, and crunchy lettuce. Its outdoor tables provide a great spot to sit, sip on a fresh juice and take in the Deira scene.
Al-Jalssa Internet Café